{"id":218,"date":"2018-07-19T12:01:24","date_gmt":"2018-07-19T10:01:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gwendreams.com\/?page_id=218"},"modified":"2020-08-25T11:17:06","modified_gmt":"2020-08-25T09:17:06","slug":"le-col-des-enfers-pyrenees-randonnee-gr11refuges-respomuso-bachimana-montagne","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/les-montagnes\/le-col-des-enfers-pyrenees-randonnee-gr11refuges-respomuso-bachimana-montagne\/","title":{"rendered":"Le col des enfers"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

Sur le GR11 dans les Pyr\u00e9n\u00e9es<\/h2>\n

Mi-juillet sur le GR11<\/a>, la transpyr\u00e9n\u00e9enne c\u00f4t\u00e9 espagnol. Escapade de 48 heures \u00e0 peine, d\u00e9part au-dessus de Sallent de Gallego. Direction le refuge de Respomuso, en remontant une vall\u00e9e fleurie, odorante et emplie de fraises des bois en cette saison.<\/p>\n

Sur la droite coule le rio de las aguas limpias (le torrent des eaux pures) de cascades en m\u00e9andres, de vasques en n\u00e9v\u00e9s. Le ciel est limpide et aux sommets voisins s’accrochent des plaques de neige.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Le refuge de Respomuso<\/h2>\n

Le refuge en fin d’apr\u00e8s-midi surplombe un lac aux allures de rivages m\u00e9diterran\u00e9ens, des eaux transparentes, une brise chauff\u00e9e sur les rochers, une invitation aux plongeons.<\/p>\n

\"\"Le lendemain, changement radical de d\u00e9cor et d’ambiance. La bruine se transforme rapidement en pluie, les nuages d\u00e9filent, bas et lourds, le vent est glacial. Cela sent l’hiver.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Temp\u00eate en plein \u00e9t\u00e9<\/h2>\n

Mont\u00e9e vers le col des enfers pour rejoindre le refuge de Bachima\u00f1a. Les torrents sont charg\u00e9s d’eaux et les gu\u00e9s se devinent sous le fort courant. Le seul choix est de tremper les chaussures ou de les oter pour se geler les pieds. Les marmottes sont rest\u00e9es au chaud, pas de trace de vie. Il faut rajouter des v\u00eatements plus chauds au fur et \u00e0 mesure de la mont\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

\"\"Les derni\u00e8res dizaines de m\u00e8tres pour acc\u00e9der au col de Tebaray, il faut sortir les crampons et le piolet, rassembler tout son courage, \u00e9viter de regarder vers le bas et vers le haut, sonder la neige pour \u00e9viter de glisser contre la paroi, puis grimper sur la roche friable en v\u00e9rifiant chaque prise car le rocher ne demande qu’\u00e0 d\u00e9valer la pente. Les pics tout proches sont invisibles, et la neige tombe depuis un petit moment.\"\"<\/p>\n

Une fois contourn\u00e9 le lac entre le col de Tebaray et le col des enfers, il ne reste plus qu’\u00e0 descendre les n\u00e9v\u00e9s, succession de glissades dans la neige mouill\u00e9e et de luge improvis\u00e9e sur les pentes les plus favorables.<\/p>\n

De lac en lac<\/h2>\n

\"\"Lac apr\u00e8s lac, cascade apr\u00e8s cascade, un troupeau de moutons, quelques \u00e9claircies, le granite en \u00e9normes blocs arras\u00e9s, finalement le refuge et le barrage, sous un ballet d’h\u00e9licopt\u00e8re.<\/p>\n

\"\"Le lendemain, l’\u00e9t\u00e9 est de retour et en redescendant vers le Baln\u00e9arios de Panticosa il faut faire place aux hordes de randonneurs qui viennent voir le lac, oubli\u00e9es les solitudes glac\u00e9es de la veille.<\/p>\n

Cascades et d\u00e9fil\u00e9s encaiss\u00e9s, parois fleuries et passages a\u00e9riens, pour finir \u00e0 la station thermale des Baln\u00e9arios de Panticosa. D\u00e9cadente et semi-abandonn\u00e9e comme la plupart de ses soeurs pyr\u00e9n\u00e9ennes, elle porte un vague air de fin d’un monde. D\u00e9finitivement, c’est le retour \u00e0 la civilisation et la fin de la randonn\u00e9e.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sur le GR11 dans les Pyr\u00e9n\u00e9es Mi-juillet sur le GR11, la transpyr\u00e9n\u00e9enne c\u00f4t\u00e9 espagnol. Escapade de 48 heures \u00e0 peine, d\u00e9part au-dessus de Sallent de Gallego. Direction le refuge de Respomuso, en remontant une vall\u00e9e fleurie, odorante et emplie de fraises des bois en cette saison. Sur la droite coule…<\/p>\n

Continuer la lectureLe col des enfers<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3199,"parent":146,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"iawp_total_views":14,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-218","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","entry"],"yoast_head":"\nLe col des enfers - Gwendreams GR11 montagne randonn\u00e9e<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Pyr\u00e9n\u00e9es col Enfers randonn\u00e9e gwendreams montagne blog nature refuge Respomuso Bachimana GR11 Sallent Gallego Panticosa balnearios eau neige\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/les-montagnes\/le-col-des-enfers-pyrenees-randonnee-gr11refuges-respomuso-bachimana-montagne\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Le col des enfers - 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