{"id":1590,"date":"2019-06-27T16:50:54","date_gmt":"2019-06-27T14:50:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gwendreams.com\/?p=1590"},"modified":"2019-09-09T17:07:32","modified_gmt":"2019-09-09T15:07:32","slug":"lile-aux-singes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/2019\/06\/27\/lile-aux-singes\/","title":{"rendered":"L’\u00eele aux singes"},"content":{"rendered":"

Dans la s\u00e9rie Voyage en Chine du sud<\/strong>, archive in\u00e9dite de juillet 2011.<\/em><\/p>\n

Toujours Hainan. Nouvelle partie de ma mission, consistant \u00e0 aller \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte de la faune indig\u00e8ne. Il faut dire, mission accomplie puisqu’outre les macaques, j’ai r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 rencontrer des buffles et des perroquets (j’avais d\u00e9j\u00e0 la veille fait connaissance avec les moustiques, les cafards et les rats, mais ce n’est peut \u00eatre pas aussi glamour donc autant commencer par le plus exotique).<\/p>\n

\"\"Accompagn\u00e9e donc d’un informaticien danois, j’avais d\u00e9cid\u00e9 de me rendre sur l\u2019\u00eele aux singes par mes propres moyens (c’est-a-dire les transports publics plut\u00f4t qu’un tour organis\u00e9). D’abord trouver sur la ligne 2 la gare centrale des bus longue distance, r\u00e9ussir \u00e0 acheter des billets pour la bonne destination au bon guichet puis trouver le bon bus (parce que j’ai oublie de pr\u00e9ciser qu’\u00e0 Sanya, presque tout est indiqu\u00e9 en deux langues : mandarin et … russe, et mon russe est pour le moins rouill\u00e9), et enfin en route pour une heure trente de bus heureusement climatis\u00e9. Je dois pr\u00e9ciser que tout le monde est bien aimable et fait tout son possible pour aider, mais parfois tout n’est pas beaucoup. Le bus nous jette au passage \u00e0 un grand carrefour de Lingshui (moi non plus, je ne sais pas vraiment ou c’est). L\u00e0, je fais le singe un peu (litt\u00e9ralement, j’imite un singe) et les gens nous poussent dans un minibus qui s\u2019\u00e9loigne lentement de toute civilisation.<\/p>\n

\"\"\u00a0 Ce trajet en minibus semble tout droit sorti d’un film, car le bus passe devant des rizi\u00e8res cultiv\u00e9es par des paysans aux chapeaux pointus dirigeant des buffles, des vaches aux longues cornes tirent des charrettes, on quitte la route pour emprunter un pont de fortune constitu\u00e9 de … d\u00e9tritus, devant chaque maison un petit autel de v\u00e9n\u00e9ration des anc\u00eatres, joliment d\u00e9cor\u00e9, ou br\u00fble de l’encens et des bougies derri\u00e8re les offrandes de nourriture fra\u00eeche, plus loin encore un buffle (en anglais water buffalo) se baigne jusqu’aux naseaux dans une micromare. Ici et l\u00e0 un bar \u00e0 hamacs, dont le concept est admirable : un bosquet d’arbres, les hamacs tous arrimes \u00e0 un arbre central, dispos\u00e9s en \u00e9toile : du hamac social, quoi ! Presque chaque bar ou caf\u00e9 ou je ne sais quoi dispose d’un billard dans sa cour avant, cr\u00e9ant cette merveilleuse petite note de d\u00e9calage parmi les poulets et les chiens poussi\u00e9reux.<\/p>\n

\"\"Au bout de la route (qui a alors disparu et n’est plus qu’un chemin de terre battue), le minibus recrache ses occupants et l\u00e0 … oh bonheur, il faut prendre un tuk tuk, mais si, un side car recouvert d’un abri, attach\u00e9 \u00e0 une petite moto. Oh que j’aime \u00e7a, \u00e7a cahote juste un peu, le l\u00e9ger vent du mouvement, le large champ visuel …<\/p>\n

\"\"Trop vite (tout \u00e9tant relatif), on arrive au t\u00e9l\u00e9ph\u00e9rique qui nous envole par dessus un mince bras d’eau et la petite montagne derri\u00e8re laquelle se tiennent les singes, dans un d\u00e9bordement de verdure d\u00e9cha\u00een\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

\"\"Vue magnifique sur le village marin, un entrelacs de pontons, maisons et bateaux qui encadrent des fermes piscicoles, casiers g\u00e9ants \u00e0 ciel ouvert ou grouillent des formes color\u00e9es qui iront ensuite garnir les aquariums des restaurants puis les assiettes des touristes.<\/p>\n

\"\"Finalement, les macaques : les jeunes qui jouent et se jettent dans une piscine am\u00e9nag\u00e9e \u00e0 leur intention, fascinant de joie et comme un grand \u00e9clat de rire collectif. Un peu plus loin un, deux singes me t\u00e9moignent un int\u00e9r\u00eat particulier, puis l’un des deux m’escalade litt\u00e9ralement, entre dans mon sac et me subtilise un morceau de pain, vestige oubli\u00e9 du petit d\u00e9jeuner, avant de se r\u00e9fugier dans les branches d’un arbre pour d\u00e9guster sa prise. Toute la journ\u00e9e, l’odeur doit rester pr\u00e9sente, car ils et elles sont nombreux \u00e0 venir s’asseoir pr\u00e8s de moi, tirer gentiment sur mon sac.<\/p>\n

\"\"Tout est un peu artificiel, aux limites du faux, mais au moins, je suppose que c’est honn\u00eate, m\u00eame si je voudrais ne pas voir toute cette r\u00e9alit\u00e9, puisque les animaux sont ici captifs, sans que l’on ne voie les murs de la prison, constitu\u00e9e peut-\u00eatre de la seule garantie d’un repas chaque jour. Est-ce pire que la condition humaine en bien des endroits ? Et me voici en pleine r\u00e9flexion au beau milieu des vacances, comme ce singe en statue miroitant le penseur de Rodin, assis sur un volume de Darwin et tenant dans sa main un cr\u00e2ne humain.<\/p>\n

\u00a0 \"\"Un peu plus tard un perroquet vient me t\u00e9moigner son affection aussit\u00f4t que je sors un billet vert (un yuan) et se pose sur ma main, ses serres \u00e9trangement chaudes et d\u00e9licates contre ma peau, et je me sens en retour une affection gratuite pour cet \u00e9trange volatile mercantile.<\/p>\n

Le soir j’aurai encore d’autres chances de contacts avec des animaux, mais les moustiques me semblent moins exotiques, les rats comme celui du restaurant hier soir, quoique mignon, me semble risqu\u00e9s, et les cafards, noirs et gros comme un bon pouce … n’en parlons pas, cela vaut mieux.<\/p>\n

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Dans la s\u00e9rie Voyage en Chine du sud, archive in\u00e9dite de juillet 2011. Toujours Hainan. Nouvelle partie de ma mission, consistant \u00e0 aller \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte de la faune indig\u00e8ne. Il faut dire, mission accomplie puisqu’outre les macaques, j’ai r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 rencontrer des buffles et des perroquets (j’avais d\u00e9j\u00e0 la…<\/p>\n

Continuer la lectureL’\u00eele aux singes<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":3091,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"iawp_total_views":3,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2,21,6,17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1590","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-animaux","category-chine","category-flore-et-nature","category-voyages","entry"],"yoast_head":"\nL'\u00eele aux singes - Gwendreams<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/2019\/06\/27\/lile-aux-singes\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"L'\u00eele aux singes - Gwendreams\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Dans la s\u00e9rie Voyage en Chine du sud, archive in\u00e9dite de juillet 2011. Toujours Hainan. Nouvelle partie de ma mission, consistant \u00e0 aller \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte de la faune indig\u00e8ne. 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