{"id":4562,"date":"2023-04-10T20:00:00","date_gmt":"2023-04-10T18:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/?p=4562"},"modified":"2023-10-31T21:34:07","modified_gmt":"2023-10-31T20:34:07","slug":"alicun-et-ses-travertins","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/2023\/04\/10\/alicun-et-ses-travertins\/","title":{"rendered":"Alicun et ses travertins"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Un peu par hasard, la route m’emm\u00e8ne jusqu’au minuscule hameau de Alic\u00fan de las Torres, en Sierra de G\u00e1dor. Le v\u00e9ritable objectif \u00e9tait le village de Gorafe, mais faute d’y trouver un emplacement id\u00e9al, c’est \u00e0 dire autoris\u00e9 et offrant de l’ombre pour pouvoir y laisser le chat sans danger le temps d’une ou deux visites au mus\u00e9e et aux habitations troglodytes, j’ai continu\u00e9, juste pour voir. Et ce que j’ai trouv\u00e9 valait la peine d’\u00eatre vu !<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tout d’abord, un paysage d\u00e9sertique de falaises ravin\u00e9es, bien nomm\u00e9es les \u00ab\u00a0coloradas\u00a0\u00bb. Puis dans un coude de la route, une petite pin\u00e8de o\u00f9 garer le cha(t)mion et passer la nuit, en face d’un \u00e9tablissement thermal, ferm\u00e9 en attendant la haute saison.
<\/p>\n\n\n

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Juste en dessous du parking, les eaux chaudes ressurgissent bri\u00e8vement, pour se diriger d’un c\u00f4t\u00e9 vers un petit ruisseau alimentant en \u00e9t\u00e9 une immense piscine ludique, dont ne t\u00e9moignent pour le moment que quelques jolies cascades et petits bassins. De l’autre c\u00f4t\u00e9, le petit filet d’eau vive emprunte une canalisation au moins partiellement naturelle, \u00e0 l’air libre, r\u00e9utilis\u00e9 en aval pour irriguer les cultures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cet ensemble de huit sources thermales est d\u00e9j\u00e0 attest\u00e9 au XII\u00e8me si\u00e8cle par le g\u00e9ographe et cartographe Al-Idrisi<\/a>. L’eau ressort ici d’une faille, \u00e0 une temp\u00e9rature de 35 degr\u00e9s celsius, apr\u00e8s avoir \u00e9t\u00e9 chauff\u00e9e \u00e0 56 degr\u00e9s dans l’acquif\u00e8re (de la Sierra de Baza et possiblement de Mencal), situ\u00e9 \u00e0 650 ou 800 m\u00e8tres sous la surface. Elle est fortement min\u00e9ralis\u00e9e, charg\u00e9e en
bicarbonate de calcium et sulfate de magn\u00e9sium. C’est cette propri\u00e9t\u00e9 qu’exploite l’\u00e9tablissement thermal voisin (rhumatismes, circulation sanguine, syst\u00e8me nerveux, digestif et peau).
C’est \u00e9galement sans doute l’un des \u00e9l\u00e9ments, avec la situation strat\u00e9gique de l’endroit entre deux vall\u00e9es, \u00e0 la confluence des r\u00edos Fardes y Gor, qui explique l’abondance de traces de pr\u00e9sence humaine, au moins depuis le pal\u00e9olithique sup\u00e9rieur.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Un sentier suit justement cette canalisation, nomm\u00e9e la Acequia del Toril. Il s’agit de veritables murailles naturelles en travertin<\/a>, form\u00e9es par les concr\u00e9tions calcaires et par la min\u00e9ralisations des plantes, poussant all\u00e8grement sous l’effet de cette eau chaude \u00e0 profusion. Il est facile d’imaginer qu’un initial canal d’irrigation ait \u00e9t\u00e9 am\u00e9nag\u00e9 au niveau du sol pour amener l’eau sur un site habit\u00e9, puis se soit progressivement \u00e9lev\u00e9 jusqu’\u00e0 atteindre sa hauteur actuelle, de plus de 10 m\u00e8tres dans sa partie la plus \u00e9lev\u00e9e.
Cependant, des datations scientifiques de ce monument naturel unique en Europe invalident cette th\u00e9orie, puisque les parties les plus anciennes datent de 205.000 ans et les plus r\u00e9centes remontent encore \u00e0 35.000 ans. Soit bien avant le d\u00e9but m\u00eame du n\u00e9olithique. Que les agriculteurs aient ensuite r\u00e9utilis\u00e9 cette structure pour irriguer des champs est bien compr\u00e9hensible, mais ils n’en sont de toute \u00e9vidence pas les cr\u00e9ateurs.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Le chemin longe d’abord le canal devenant rapidement a\u00e9rien, puis le traverse par une petite ouverture dans ce mur de trois m\u00e8tre d’\u00e9paisseur pour se transformer en une ruelle \u00e9trange, enserr\u00e9e entre deux parois, l’aqueduc ayant connu plusieurs trac\u00e9s, certains abandonn\u00e9s ou interrompus par un effondrement de paroi. Le tout serpente doucement sur plus d’un kilom\u00e8tre et demi, ouvrant parfois un passage ou une petite grotte, laissant deviner un pass\u00e9 de min\u00e9ralisation progressive. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En ce d\u00e9but avril anormalement chaud, se promener dans cet espace bien temp\u00e9r\u00e9 est un d\u00e9lice pour les sens, reposant et apaisant en m\u00eame temps que suscitant l’\u00e9merveillement devant la beaut\u00e9 de l’ensemble.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La promenade se termine sur la d\u00e9couverte de quelques dolmens sauvages, mais il s’agit l\u00e0 d’une nouvelle histoire, qui reste \u00e0 \u00e9crire. C’est encore un autre univers, et en ce soir de printemps andalou qui a toute la douceur d’un \u00e9t\u00e9, restons encore un peu dans la fra\u00eecheur de ces jolies petites falaises calcaires couvertes de plantes semi-aquatiques.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pour suivre ce voyage sur la carte<\/a>, cliquez sur voyage en Espagne 2023<\/a> : deuxi\u00e8me tron\u00e7on, site I.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

\u00a9 Gwen Caillet 2023 \u2013 Tous droits r\u00e9serv\u00e9s.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Un peu par hasard, la route m’emm\u00e8ne jusqu’au minuscule hameau de Alic\u00fan de las Torres, en Sierra de G\u00e1dor. Le v\u00e9ritable objectif \u00e9tait le village de Gorafe, mais faute d’y trouver un emplacement id\u00e9al, c’est \u00e0 dire autoris\u00e9 et offrant de l’ombre pour pouvoir y laisser le chat sans danger…<\/p>\n

Continuer la lectureAlicun et ses travertins<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4607,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"iawp_total_views":10,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,23,13,17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4562","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-archeologie","category-espagne","category-patrimoine","category-voyages","entry"],"yoast_head":"\nAlicun et ses travertins - Gwendreams<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Alicun travertins gwendreams voyage fourgon am\u00e9nag\u00e9 Espagne nature montagne vanlife chamion randonn\u00e9e arch\u00e9ologie culture\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/2023\/04\/10\/alicun-et-ses-travertins\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Alicun et ses travertins - 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