{"id":4798,"date":"2023-09-08T19:46:32","date_gmt":"2023-09-08T17:46:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/?p=4798"},"modified":"2023-10-31T21:02:01","modified_gmt":"2023-10-31T20:02:01","slug":"ile-de-skye-semer-le-vent-recolter-la-tempete","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/2023\/09\/08\/ile-de-skye-semer-le-vent-recolter-la-tempete\/","title":{"rendered":"Ile de Skye : semer le vent … r\u00e9colter la temp\u00eate"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Sur la belle \u00eele de Skye, j\u2019ai \u00e9chapp\u00e9 de peu \u00e0 la pneumonie (au moins) en bravant la temp\u00eate pour aller \u00e0 leur rencontre, pleine d\u2019espoir. Il s’agit des phoques<\/a>, bien entendu. On m\u2019avait signal\u00e9 leur pr\u00e9sence dans une crique abrit\u00e9e, si j\u2019avais le courage de marcher un peu. Bien entendu, j’ai saut\u00e9 sur l’occasion.<\/p>\n\n\n

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J\u2019avais seulement quelques heures d\u2019avance sur le gros coup de vent du sud qui avait ramen\u00e9 dans des mouillages plus s\u00fbrs les voiliers bien inform\u00e9s. Se lever t\u00f4t, conduire jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la pointe nord de l\u2019\u00eele. Trouver un stationnement malgr\u00e9 l\u2019enthousiasme provoqu\u00e9 par les ruines d\u2019un ch\u00e2teau \u00e0 proximit\u00e9. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Revenir \u00e0 pied au d\u00e9but de la randonn\u00e9e, se perdre sous le soleil, retrouver le chemin, croiser les troupeaux de mouton, essuyer les premi\u00e8res gouttes, croiser les touristes tremp\u00e9s dans leur petit t-shirt, l\u2019air d\u00e9sabus\u00e9. Se laisser pousser dans le dos par le vent, entrer dans une petite vall\u00e9e, soudainement se trouver en haut de la falaise.
<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rubba Hunnish<\/h2>\n\n\n
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Se pr\u00e9cipiter dans le chemin \u00e0 pic pour ne pas r\u00e9fl\u00e9chir et risquer de changer d\u2019avis, remercier les nuages de s\u2019\u00eatre \u00e9loign\u00e9s. Poser enfin le pied sur la presqu\u2019\u00eele en bas des hautes falaises noires.
Ils avaient \u00e9t\u00e9 aper\u00e7us juste l\u00e0, avec leurs petits. Mais ce jour-l\u00e0, pas l\u2019ombre d\u2019une moustache. J\u2019entreprends n\u00e9anmoins le tour de l\u2019\u00eele, par acquis de conscience, m\u2019\u00e9merveille devant les coul\u00e9es de basalte perc\u00e9es de crevasses, sous les murailles d\u00e9chiquet\u00e9es s\u2019effondrant dans la mer au fil des mill\u00e9naires.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En voulant faire le tour d\u2019est en ouest, je me fais maltraiter par le vent. Prudence oblige, je m\u2019\u00e9loigne de l\u2019\u00e0-pic. Ce n\u2019est pourtant pas suffisant, car l\u2019intensit\u00e9 augmente et les rafales se font brutales, aussi je coupe au beau milieu des prairies, puis renonce \u00e0 explorer davantage, mais le vent continue \u00e0 gagner en puissance de minute en minute. Des bourrasques me projettent dans l\u2019herbe, sans la moindre consid\u00e9ration pour mon amour propre. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

De longues vagues se soul\u00e8vent au loin, gonflent encore, puis s\u2019envolent dans la baie avant de venir me fouetter le visage en grosse bruine sal\u00e9e, bien plus haut \u00e0 flanc de colline. Je profite un moment du spectacle, avant de m\u2019avouer vaincue et de reprendre le chemin dans la falaise, vers le monde et la civilisation. Adieu la fureur des \u00e9l\u00e9ments et la solitude du bout du monde.<\/p>\n\n\n

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D\u00e9fier les \u00e9l\u00e9ments, et rire dans le vent<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Le retour est tout de m\u00eame long, contre le vent, arros\u00e9e par des averses qui finissent par laisser place \u00e0 une douche soutenue. Les parkings se sont vid\u00e9s, la lande est d\u00e9serte. Les chaussures de marche se remplissent d\u2019eau, et le pantalon aurait besoin d\u2019\u00eatre essor\u00e9.
Penser que tout \u00e7a n’a servi \u00e0 rien, un rendez-vous manqu\u00e9.
Rien ? Voire, une journ\u00e9e comme celle-ci a d\u00e9cid\u00e9ment un d\u00e9licieux petit go\u00fbt d\u2019aventure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Enfin bien au sec et au chaud, je savoure la fin de l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, mais le vent n\u2019a pas dit son dernier mot et vient secouer le fourgon sans rel\u00e2che, comme un enfant capricieux maltraitant ses jouets. Quand je commence \u00e0 me demander s\u2019il existe des rafales assez puissantes pour renverser le cha(t)mion, je comprends qu\u2019il est temps de changer d\u2019endroit. La c\u00f4te ouest devient trop expos\u00e9e, donc je redescends de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9, et quitterai l\u2019\u00eele d\u00e8s le lendemain, \u00e0 la recherche de l\u2019abri offert par les montagnes. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ce sera donc une autre aventure, peupl\u00e9e de cerfs bondissants dans des vall\u00e9es bois\u00e9es, le long de rivi\u00e8res scintillantes au soleil. Ou au milieu de montagnes grises au dessus des landes violettes de bruy\u00e8res odorantes, sous des ciels si bas que les sommets semblent ne pas exister vraiment. Vers le nord. Toujours plus au nord, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 ne plus rencontrer que la mer. Et la franchir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pour suivre ce voyage sur la carte<\/a>, cliquez sur voyage \u00e9t\u00e9 2023<\/a> : sixi\u00e8me tron\u00e7on, site D.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a9 Gwen Caillet 2023 \u2013 Tous droits r\u00e9serv\u00e9s.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sur la belle \u00eele de Skye, j\u2019ai \u00e9chapp\u00e9 de peu \u00e0 la pneumonie (au moins) en bravant la temp\u00eate pour aller \u00e0 leur rencontre, pleine d\u2019espoir. Il s’agit des phoques, bien entendu. On m\u2019avait signal\u00e9 leur pr\u00e9sence dans une crique abrit\u00e9e, si j\u2019avais le courage de marcher un peu. Bien…<\/p>\n

Continuer la lectureIle de Skye : semer le vent … r\u00e9colter la temp\u00eate<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4799,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"iawp_total_views":7,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[43,15,40,17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4798","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ecosse","category-randonnee","category-royaume-uni","category-voyages","entry"],"yoast_head":"\nIle de Skye : semer le vent ... r\u00e9colter la temp\u00eate - Gwendreams<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Skye Scotland gwendreams voyage vanlife fourgon am\u00e9nag\u00e9 randonn\u00e9e nature chamion phoques ocean Atlantique tempete crique\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/2023\/09\/08\/ile-de-skye-semer-le-vent-recolter-la-tempete\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ile de Skye : semer le vent ... r\u00e9colter la temp\u00eate - 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