{"id":4826,"date":"2023-09-11T14:05:26","date_gmt":"2023-09-11T12:05:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/?p=4826"},"modified":"2023-10-31T20:59:14","modified_gmt":"2023-10-31T19:59:14","slug":"heureux-comme-un-phoque-au-soleil","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/2023\/09\/11\/heureux-comme-un-phoque-au-soleil\/","title":{"rendered":"Heureux comme un phoque au soleil"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Parfois l’attente se fait longue, mais quand elle prend fin, quand la rencontre tant esp\u00e9r\u00e9e a finalement lieu, alors la magie op\u00e8re. Deux phoques<\/a> sont venus au rendez-vous, deux moments inoubliables au cours d’un coyage d\u00e9j\u00e0 merveilleux \u00e0 bien des \u00e9gards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le phoque et les macareux<\/h2>\n\n\n
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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

C\u00f4te ouest de l’Ecosse. J’ai d\u00fb fuir l’\u00eele de Skye assaillie par la temp\u00eate, et me suis r\u00e9fugi\u00e9e sur la c\u00f4te, qui offre davantage d’endroits o\u00f9 abriter le fourgon des vents violents. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

En chemin, j’ai rencontr\u00e9 un grand cerf rouge tr\u00e8s peu farouche, des montagnes immenses perdues dans les nuages, des averses \u00e9piques, des plages de sable fin \u00e9voquant davantage les Cara\u00efbes que les Highlands \u00e9cossais.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Au petit matin, apr\u00e8s une nuit l\u00e9g\u00e8rement secou\u00e9e \u00e0 Red Point, je traverse \u00e0 pied les grandes dunes et m’assieds un peu \u00e0 l’abri du vent face \u00e0 la mer, les pieds dans le sable. A travers les jumelles, j’observe la plage rouge et ses environs. Tout pr\u00e8s de l’eau, un groupe de macareux est endormi, encore en formation d’escadrille, pr\u00eats \u00e0 reprendre l’air \u00e0 la moindre alerte. J’ai de la chance, car pour la plupart, ils sont d\u00e9j\u00e0 repartis rejoindre leurs quartiers d’hiver.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"close
Photo Dirk De Vlaminck<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Mais si, vous savez bien, les macareux<\/a>, comme les macarons<\/a> sauf que \u00e7a ne se mange pas ? Toujours pas ? En anglais, on les appelle des puffin<\/a>, l\u00e0 encore, comme des muffins, sauf qu’on ne les mange pas. Bon d’accord, \u00e7a n’a rien \u00e0 voir … Donc ces oiseaux noir et blanc avec le bec et les pattes d’un bel orang\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

J’admire et admire encore, balaie du regard les alentours, et tout d’un coup il est l\u00e0, pile dans l’axe de mon regard, non loin des oiseaux ensommeill\u00e9s. Un phoque sort la t\u00eate hors de l’eau, sans doute venu inspecter les intrus sur le rivage. Il semble regarder directement vers moi malgr\u00e9 les jumelles. Je retiens mon souffle, n’ose plus bouger malgr\u00e9 la distance. Le temps est suspendu, puis il disparait, aussi discr\u00e8tement qu’il \u00e9tait apparu, comme s’il n’avait jamais \u00e9t\u00e9 l\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mais moi je sais, et j’ai le coeur l\u00e9ger en reprenant la route. Il est venu au rendez-vous. <\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"seal
Photo by Ellie Burgin on Pexels.com<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Le phoque sur son rocher<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Une bonne semaine plus tard, circonstances obligent (sous la forme d’une vilaine tendinite qui interdit toute nouvelle randonn\u00e9e), j’ai rejoint la c\u00f4te est de l’Ecosse, remontant en ligne droite vers les \u00eeles Orkney (les Orcades). Afin de ne pas trop forcer sur ma jambe douloureuse, je fais de courtes \u00e9tapes et cette nuit-l\u00e0 j’ai d\u00e9gott\u00e9 un charmant emplacement directement sur la plage, non loin d’un petit port. Zeus est parti explorer les alentours sit\u00f4t la porte ouverte, et j’ai sorti les jumelles afin de scruter l’horizon dans cette fin d’apr\u00e8s-midi ensoleill\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un \u00e9ternuement non loin de moi, mais la plage est d\u00e9serte, et le son provenait de la mer. J’examine plus attentivement les eaux bleut\u00e9es et un mouvement capte mon attention. Un gros phoque nage le long du rivage, remontant vers le nord. Il sort de l’eau pour s’installer sur un rocher encore immerg\u00e9. La mar\u00e9e descendante lui permet de s\u00e9cher son grand corps au soleil, entour\u00e9 de reflets scintillants. Il ne se trouve qu’\u00e0 quelques dizaines de m\u00e8tre de moi, aussi j’ai tout loisir de l’observer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il se glissera de nouveau dans l’eau un peu plus tard, ennuy\u00e9 par la proximit\u00e9 d’un chien en libert\u00e9, mais seulement pour aller se hisser sur un autre rocher, par bonheur plus pr\u00e8s de moi cette fois. Au moment d’aller me coucher, il est encore l\u00e0 et au matin il est reparti, mais j’ai eu des heures pour l’observer. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il fait bronzette, sur le dos, sur le ventre, de c\u00f4t\u00e9. Il se tortille un peu pour ajuster sa position, se gratte une patte arri\u00e8re avec l’autre, replie sa patte avant au chaud contre sa peau. C’est un grand phoque gris, t\u00e2chet\u00e9 et sans doute plein de cicatrices. Je ne me lasse pas de l’admirer. Il me tient \u00e0 l’oeil, mais je ne l’inqui\u00e8te gu\u00e8re et ne me rapproche jamais de lui. Parfois il me fixe de ses grands yeux sombres. Les heures passent, et nous nous tenons compagnie, dans la qui\u00e9tudes des derniers rayons du soleil couchant.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"closeup
Photo by JOHNY REBEL, the Explorer Panda<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

J’en ai r\u00eav\u00e9 et ils sont venus. Les phoques de l’Atlantique ou de mer du nord. Je vais pouvoir recommencer \u00e0 r\u00eaver. Ailleurs, un autre jour, ils reviendront.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pour suivre ce voyage sur la carte<\/a>, cliquez sur voyage \u00e9t\u00e9 2023<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00a9 Gwen Caillet 2023 \u2013 Tous droits r\u00e9serv\u00e9s.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Parfois l’attente se fait longue, mais quand elle prend fin, quand la rencontre tant esp\u00e9r\u00e9e a finalement lieu, alors la magie op\u00e8re. Deux phoques sont venus au rendez-vous, deux moments inoubliables au cours d’un coyage d\u00e9j\u00e0 merveilleux \u00e0 bien des \u00e9gards. Le phoque et les macareux C\u00f4te ouest de l’Ecosse.…<\/p>\n

Continuer la lectureHeureux comme un phoque au soleil<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4828,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"iawp_total_views":5,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2,43,40,17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4826","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-animaux","category-ecosse","category-royaume-uni","category-voyages","entry"],"yoast_head":"\nHeureux comme un phoque au soleil - Gwendreams<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"phoque phoques seal Ecosse voyage fourgon nature ocean Atlantique rocher vanlife fourgon am\u00e9nag\u00e9 chamion gwendreams\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/gwendreams.com\/index.php\/2023\/09\/11\/heureux-comme-un-phoque-au-soleil\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Heureux comme un phoque au soleil - 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